Saturday, 28 April 2007

My travels on a train...

OK, so I didn't really manage to catch up that well. Hey ho...

Anyway, I thought I would write about my (fairly) recent travels on trains in India. I went to Delhi, Agra and Jaipur over the Easter weekend and made my first 2 journeys on the railway in India.

Firstly factfans, here are some interesting ...er... facts about the Indian rail network:

With 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations, the railway network in India is the third biggest in the world after Russia and China, and the biggest in the world in terms of passenger kilometres. Indian Railways are also the world's biggest employer, with over 1.5 million staff. It's perversely comforting that even with 1.5 million members of staff you can't find one to tell you if you're on the right platform - it's not just a British Rail problem!

Anyhoo, we caught the Shatabdi Express which is the superfast train from New Delhi to Agra. I have to say this was one of the best train experiences I have ever had - not at all like the suburban trains I see chugging through Mumbai with hundreds of people hanging out of the doors. Finding and getting on the train was trouble free (except there was a man, lying in a pool of blood outside the station, who everyone seemed to be ignoring) and the train left on time. We were travelling AC Chair Class, which is one of the 8 classes of ticket you seem to be able to get on the railway here. The carriage was pretty new, and full of other tourists on the day trip to see the Taj Mahal. It was wider than a train back home, as there were 3 seats on either side of the aisle - in fact it was a bit more like an aircraft with all the seats being recliners. It cost us about Rs. 390 each for the 2 hour journey (about £4.50), for which we also got a hot vegetarian breakfast (needless to say I didn't partake in that), a large bottle of mineral water and a carton of fruit juice - result! In fact, the only thing that wasn't first world about the train trip was apparently the toilets, which luckily I didn't need to use!

Our train from Agra to Jaipur was actually a much more interesting experience. For a start it was late, which wasn’t ideal as the trip take around 5 hours anyway, but it did mean that we got a chance to experience waiting on a platform. All human life is there – people cooking food on barrows and selling it to people through the train windows, proper shops selling books and toys, groups of western backpackers listening to their i-pods and looking bored, gangs of small children with no shoes begging for money and food, big barrows of fruit, porters carrying luggage on their heads, and flies. Lots of flies. And a very unpleasant smell where they empty the train toilets when the train is at the platform (nice).

When the train finally arrived we were in a 3AC carriage, which basically has 3 drop down bunks (as shown in the picture here which is from http://www.seat61.com/india.htm - incidently this is a brilliant website for all things train related).














This felt a little bit more like 'proper' train travel in India, although it was air conditioned. I got to travel on the top bunk, and they come and deliver a pillow and a sheet so you can relax and have a sleep. It was actually quite fun, even though the train got more and more delayed the longer we were on it. We were sat at the end of the carriage opposite the 4 ticket inspectors who were also on the train - after telling us we were sat in the wrong place (we knew, but there was some cargo on my bunk when we got on so I couldn't sit on it) they were actually pretty friendly. Now I reallu want to try a sleeper service in the UK for comparison!!!

So I am in India for about another 3 weeks now and I still haven't tried the following forms of transport:


  • Elephant
  • Sedan chair
  • Camel
  • Horse and trap
  • BEST bus
  • Suburban train

Somehow I don't think I'll get round to them now. However, I haven't done too badly as I have managed:

  • Auto rickshaw
  • Non-AC taxi
  • AC taxi
  • Private car
  • Cycle rickshaw
  • Motorbike
  • Intercity train
  • Aeroplane
  • Boat

So I have actually been on plane, trains and automobiles - fantastic!!

Tuesday, 17 April 2007

Catch Up Part 3 - Why Not?

Right, I am stupidly behind now but as I am back in the UK for a week or so (I think) I have an opportunity to catch up a bit...

On March 30th we went to a rather random gig by a band called 'Why Not?' at a place called Seijo in Bandra. Rather random because:

a) the band was Polish (in fact they are one of the most popular bands in Poland, apparently)
b) the lead singer was Scottish
c) they have a video on VH1 in India
d) the lead singer has an uncanny resemblance to a guy called Stuart Roberts from work (see the photo below)
e) they were joined on stage by one of the runners up from the Polish version of Pop Idol

Anyway, the venue is quite small (I believe the correct terminology is 'intimate') and the concert was pretty good. The music is kind of soft rock and I really enjoyed it. There was a lot of waffle about why they had come to India (apparently their next video is going to be shot there) and a lot of cameras and reporters taking pictures - if you want to see a review then click here. I would quite like to get their album but I can't find it anywhere online - if you ever see one please let me know.

And yes, I enjoyed this gig significantly more than Roger Waters!

Why Not? indeed...


Tuesday, 3 April 2007

Catch up Part 2 - It's birthday time (well, it was...)

OK, so to catch up a bit further, it was my birthday on March 19th and I was lucky enough to get lots of cake, as well as lovely presents from my Mum and Dad, and my friend Amanda (Mum - the Radley bag is great and I'm getting lots of use out of it at the moment!).

So anyway, cake. There is a little cafe / deli here at the hotel, I go there most days for lunch. And sometimes breakfast. And occasionally dinner. I am slowly turning into a toasted cheese sandwich... Anyway, that's by the by. They also make big impressive looking cakes. And I managed to get 3 of them :-) Also the office sent me flowers and I also got some brownies. My birthday didn't do a lot for my diet.


The only issue with the cake was that the one that the office sent me was obviously ordered on the phone and the name 'Diane' isn't that common here. So it was carefully iced "Happy Birthday Dean". Ah well, it's the thought that counts...

I also went out for dinner with the project team that are based out here. We went to a really nice place called The Vie Lounge (click here if you're interested) which is on the beach front. The music was really good and we had a cool time, so I would recommend it if you happen to be in the Juhu Beach area of Mumbai any time soon.

No monkeys this time, Anonymous - I will put them up soon though (wow, what an incentive to keep reading...)

Sunday, 1 April 2007

Catch up Part One - more photos!

Right, today I went into Bandra (residential suburb quite close to the hotel) and managed to get my photos put onto a CD so I can now get them onto my laptop and therefore onto my blog. This means that I can go back and write about the things I have done with the added bonus of photo illustration!

OK, so the first thing I haven't talked about yet is my trip to Elephanta Island, which happened on March 17th. Elephanta is the first 'Highlight' in my Lonely Planet - Best of Mumbai guide so I have been meaning to go to it for ages. However, you have to get a boat from the Gateway of India (which is in the South - about an hour from my hotel in clear traffic) so I hadn't got around to it.
Anyway, Elephanta Island is, according the Lonely Planet "home to Mumbai's most important historical attraction. Carved into the basalt bedrockof the island is a series of Hindu caves containing some of the finest temple carvings in India. This is easily the most popular sight in Mumbai and thousands of visitors flock here daily to admire the carvings and enjoy the leisurely boat ride across Mumbai harbour." The caves are pretty amazing and on a huge scale - if you want to find out more about them then you can click here to see the Wikipedia entry on them.


The trip over on the boat was nice if a bit long (it's about an hour) and it was really getting hot (things are beginning to heat up here on the way into Summer). When we landed on the island we got a little train (on proper tracks, not like the motorised trains you get at the seaside) for the princely sum of Rs. 8 (about 10p) to take us down the jetty to the island proper. It was especially good as it was a return ticket and we were much more hot and tired on the way back...



To get to the caves on Elephanta you have to walk up a lot of steps. A lot. And it was really hot. All the way up the steps there are stalls trying to sell you all sorts of things - mostly carved elephants and other nik-naks. Also there were some very welcome restaurants selling cold drinks and food (although for obvious reasons I stayed away from the food). There were a lot of monkeys (I will save the photos of them for another animal special!).
I won't write about the caves because there is already a lot written about them elsewhere and I daresay I won't add anything of academic value. They were pretty impressive and I would recommend a visit to anyone going to Mumbai. As long as you are OK on the water and climbing lots of steps. Anyway, I took some rather dodgy photos on the way back, including this one which looks suspiciously like the Taj Towers is about to fall on top of the Gateway of India. A digital camera does not a photographer make...